How to Set Up a Premium Garage for Superbike Storage and Display

Most superbike owners spend considerable time and money choosing the right machine, yet the space where it lives for the other 300-odd days of the year gets an afterthought. A damp, poorly lit single garage with a concrete floor and a padlock on a thin steel door is not just an aesthetic disappointment — it is actively damaging the bike. Corrosion starts in places you cannot see. Flat-spotted tyres wear unevenly. Batteries discharge. And when the day eventually comes to sell, those accumulated hours of inadequate storage show up in the condition report and, inevitably, the price.

This guide is written for owners who want something better: a garage set up to showroom standard, where the bike is protected, accessible, properly supported and genuinely worth looking at between rides. Whether you own one machine or are building a small collection, the principles are the same. The investment required is far more modest than most people assume, and the long-term savings — in avoided repairs, preserved resale value and reduced insurance claims — stack up quickly.

We have structured this as a practical, sequential process. Work through it from the beginning and you will end up with a coherent plan rather than a wishlist. Skip to the sections most relevant to your current setup if you are refining rather than starting from scratch.

Start with an Assessment: Measuring Your Space and Understanding Your Needs

Before buying anything, spend an hour with a tape measure, a notepad and an honest look at how you actually use the space. A garage setup for premium motorcycle storage has to function as both a workshop and a showroom, and those two requirements pull in slightly different directions. Good planning means they can coexist without compromise.

Measuring for Single Bikes, Multiple Bikes and Collector Setups

A typical UK single garage runs to around 5.4 metres long and 2.7 metres wide — just about workable for one superbike with basic access, but tight if you want to roll the bike onto stands, work around it comfortably and keep the floor clear. For two bikes, you are looking at needing at least 5.5 metres of width, or a tandem arrangement down the length of the space with a clear working aisle of at least 900mm on each side.

Measure your floor-to-ceiling height with care. It matters more than most people realise once you start adding lighting, extraction fans, lifting hoists or wall-mounted storage. A standard double garage with a 2.4-metre ceiling can accommodate most overhead storage solutions and low-profile lifts without modification. Anything higher opens up more options; anything lower requires careful equipment selection.

Note the location of drains, the position of the main door (up-and-over or side-hinged), the position of any windows, the location of the consumer unit if there is one, and any structural columns or beams. These are your fixed constraints. Everything else is adjustable.

For a collector setup of three or more bikes, you will likely need to consider wall mounting, stacking platforms or a purpose-built mezzanine — or simply accept that a single domestic garage is not the right long-term solution and plan for an outbuilding or light commercial unit instead. This guide focuses primarily on the single and double garage scenario, which covers the vast majority of enthusiast owners.

Load Capacity and Floor Condition

Check the floor condition before committing to any flooring product or heavy equipment. Cracks, spalling concrete, rising damp or soft patches all need addressing first. A dry, sound concrete slab will typically support any domestic motorcycle storage equipment with comfort. If you are planning to use a motorcycle lift or hoist, check the manufacturer’s load rating and compare it against your heaviest bike fully fuelled — most modern superbikes run between 190kg and 230kg ready to ride.

Security First: Protecting Your Investment Before the Bike Even Enters

Motorcycle theft in the UK remains a serious problem, and a garage — while far safer than a street — is not inherently secure without deliberate effort. Professional thieves can work quickly and quietly, and many residential garages present relatively easy entry points. The goal of a security setup is not to make theft impossible but to make your garage significantly harder and slower to breach than an unprotected alternative.

Doors, Locks and Physical Security

The standard up-and-over garage door is one of the weakest points in most domestic garages. The lock is often a single-point mechanism that can be defeated quickly, and the door itself frequently lacks reinforcement. If budget allows, replacing it with a sectional door or a steel-reinforced side-hinged pair dramatically increases resistance. Garador and Hormann both offer robust options with multi-point locking and tested resistance standards — worth specifying when fitting new or replacing existing doors.

Even without replacing the door entirely, you can improve physical security substantially. A bolt-through hasp and a high-security padlock rated to Sold Secure Gold standard adds meaningful resistance. Internal door bars or floor anchors fitted through the concrete with chemical anchor bolts are a low-cost addition with a significant deterrent effect. For the bike itself, a ground anchor rated to Sold Secure Diamond, combined with a quality chain and a disc lock with alarm, creates a layered barrier that most opportunist thieves will simply walk away from.

Electronic Security: Alarms, CCTV and Sensors

A self-contained PIR alarm with a siren, fitted internally and triggered by door opening or motion within the garage, is inexpensive and surprisingly effective — the noise alone deters most thieves who rely on speed and silence. Linking this to your home alarm system or to a GSM dialler that texts your phone adds a notification layer that lets you respond quickly.

CCTV cameras covering the garage entrance and approach have become affordable enough that there is little reason not to fit them. Even a simple two-camera system recording to a local SD card or network video recorder provides both deterrence and evidence. Position one to capture faces at the door, and one wider angle to cover any vehicle used in an approach. Visible cameras act as a deterrent; covert ones capture evidence — ideally you want both.

For high-value machines, consider a GPS tracker fitted discreetly on the bike itself. Several UK-specific services offer 24-hour monitoring and alert-based recovery assistance, and the annual cost is modest relative to the insurance excess you would face following a theft. Some insurers offer premium reductions for tracker-fitted bikes, which partly offsets the outlay.

Reducing Visibility and Temptation

Windows in a garage are a liability if they allow passers-by to see expensive machines inside. Frosted window film, opaque polycarbonate panels or simple internal blinds are low-cost solutions. Keep the garage tidy enough that it does not advertise its contents when the door is open during maintenance — even a few minutes with a door open and a superbike in plain view from a road can attract the wrong attention.

Controlling the Environment: Humidity, Temperature and Ventilation

Of all the factors that cause long-term deterioration in stored motorcycles, moisture is the most insidious and the most preventable. A garage that cycles between cold nights and warmer days generates condensation on metal surfaces, inside airboxes and fuel systems, within wiring looms and on the inside of bodywork. Left unchecked, this creates rust on steel fasteners, oxidation on alloy components and corrosion on electrical contacts — none of which is immediately visible, and all of which accumulates steadily.

Choosing and Positioning a Dehumidifier

A dedicated garage dehumidifier for bikes is one of the highest-value additions to any serious storage setup. Domestic dehumidifiers designed for living spaces are not ideal — they are calibrated for warmer operating temperatures and will often shut off or underperform in an unheated garage during winter. Look instead for a desiccant dehumidifier, which operates effectively down to near-freezing temperatures and is specifically suited to UK garage conditions.

Units from brands such as EcoAir, Meaco or Ebac in the 10–20 litre per day range are appropriate for a standard single or double garage. Position the unit centrally if possible, away from walls, with clear air circulation around it. Most modern units include a continuous drain option — running a small hose to the garage drain or an external outlet means you never need to empty a tank, which matters when the bike is in storage over winter and the garage is unattended for days at a time.

Target a relative humidity between 45% and 55%. Below this, rubber seals and tyre compounds can dry out prematurely. Above 60%, condensation risk rises sharply. A simple wall-mounted hygrometer costs very little and allows you to monitor conditions at a glance.

Heating and Temperature Stability

You do not need to heat a motorcycle storage garage to living-room temperatures. What you do need is to prevent dramatic temperature swings and to keep the ambient temperature above the dew point at which condensation forms. A low-wattage background heater — a tubular greenhouse heater or a low-temperature oil-filled radiator set to 8–10°C — is sufficient for most UK winters and draws very little power continuously.

Avoid unflued gas heaters in an enclosed garage. They generate significant moisture as a combustion by-product and will actively work against your dehumidification efforts.

Ventilation

Some air exchange is beneficial, but uncontrolled draughts introduce moisture, dust and temperature variability. A small electric extract fan with a backdraught shutter, mounted high on an external wall, provides controlled ventilation when running the bike briefly indoors (for starting or maintenance) and prevents stale air build-up during long storage periods. Fit a trickle vent at low level to balance the extract — this prevents negative pressure and allows air to enter in a controlled manner rather than through gaps in the door seals.

Flooring and Surfaces: The Foundation of a Proper Setup

Bare concrete is porous, cold, dusty and prone to oil absorption. It also reflects poorly on a premium storage setup — and the practical consequences matter as much as the aesthetic ones. Oil and chemical spills soak in permanently, creating slip hazards and making the floor difficult to clean. Dust from bare concrete settles on bodywork and into mechanisms. And bare concrete provides very little grip if you are rolling a heavy bike into position on a paddock ramp.

Coating and Finishing Options

Epoxy floor coatings are the go-to solution for garage floors that will see both foot traffic and motorcycle storage. A two-part epoxy applied to a prepared, primed surface creates a hard, smooth, chemically resistant finish that is far easier to clean than bare concrete. Many formulations include anti-slip aggregate — fine quartz or aluminium oxide particles broadcast into the wet topcoat — which maintains grip even when wet or oily. Applied properly, an epoxy floor lasts a decade or more with minimal maintenance.

Polyurethane topcoats offer even greater durability and UV resistance, which matters if the garage receives direct sunlight. For a showroom finish, a clear polyurethane over a coloured epoxy base gives the glossy appearance of a professional facility without the specialist fit required for poured resin floors.

Interlocking floor tiles — typically polypropylene or rubber — are a faster and reversible alternative, useful if you rent the garage or want the option to reconfigure. They do not require surface preparation beyond a clean, dry floor, can be lifted and replaced individually if damaged, and are available in a range of finishes including soft anti-fatigue compounds for workshop areas. The limitation is that grout lines can trap grit and they do not provide the same seamless appearance as a poured or brushed coating.

Protecting Fairings and Chrome from Chemical Exposure

When positioning bikes on stands or ramps, be conscious of what is directly beneath painted bodywork and chrome components. Floor cleaning chemicals, particularly alkaline degreasers, can strip wax protection and cause long-term dulling of lacquered plastics if splashed or tracked underfoot. Store cleaning chemicals in a dedicated cupboard, use drip trays under the engine and gearbox area of stored bikes, and consider applying a paint protection film to lower fairing sections that are most at risk from floor splatter.

Wheel and Tyre Care for Stored Bikes

A superbike left standing on its wheels for several months will develop flat spots on the contact patch as the tyre compound deforms under static load in one position. This is not a myth — it is a well-documented property of modern motorcycle tyres, and it affects both the ride quality and the structural integrity of the tyre. In severe cases, the deformation becomes permanent.

Paddock Stands and Axle Supports

The standard solution is to get both wheels off the ground using a front and rear paddock stand combination. Rear stands work via bobbins attached to the swingarm, or via a universal cupped adapter that supports under the swingarm directly. Front stands typically lift via a headstock yoke fitting or a wheel-chock style axle adapter. Used together, they hold the bike upright with both tyres clear of the floor, eliminating the flat-spot risk entirely and placing the suspension at rest in a natural unloaded position.

This approach does require that your storage space is stable and level enough to maintain the stands securely over a period of weeks or months. On a properly finished flat floor, it is entirely reliable. If your floor has any significant fall towards the drain, use a spirit level to confirm the stands are stable before leaving the bike unattended.

Paddock Ramps and Tyre Jacking

Paddock ramps offer an alternative approach that also raises both wheels clear of the floor and — crucially — allows you to roll the bike into a stable, supported position without the fuss of fitting individual stands. A quality aluminium paddock ramp like those manufactured by Cava Racing supports the bike from beneath the frame or subframe area, raising both wheels simultaneously when the bike is rolled onto the ramp. This is particularly practical for daily-use storage because it requires minimal setup each time and holds the bike securely in a fixed position.

For long-term storage, inflating tyres to the manufacturer’s recommended maximum cold pressure before storing helps resist flat-spotting by increasing the tyre’s rigidity. Combine this with paddock stands or a ramp and the risk of significant flat-spot development over a normal UK winter is very low.

Tyre Protectant and Environmental Exposure

UV light degrades tyre rubber over time, causing surface cracking (crazing) and accelerating compound hardening. In a sealed garage this is a minor concern, but if your garage has windows or skylights that admit direct sunlight, consider covering the tyres with dedicated tyre bags or simply ensuring the bike cover is UV-resistant. Avoid silicone-based tyre dressings on the contact patch — they reduce grip and are difficult to remove fully before riding.

Power, Batteries and Electronics: Keeping Modern Bikes Ready

Modern superbikes are increasingly electronics-dependent. The ECU, ABS module, traction control system, quickshifter and data logging systems all draw small amounts of standby current, and on lithium-ion battery-fitted machines in particular, a flat battery can trigger fault codes that require a dealer reset. Prevention is straightforward and cheap.

Battery Tenders and Smart Chargers

A quality battery tender or maintenance charger — CTEK is the most widely trusted brand in the UK market for this application — connected via a permanent pigtail lead fitted to the battery provides continuous float-charging that keeps the battery at optimal state of charge without risk of overcharging. For a garage setup, it is worth routing the charger lead through a switched socket on the wall, so the tender is active only when you want it to be. If you store multiple bikes, a multi-bank charger can service all of them from a single unit.

For bikes fitted with lithium batteries (common on many current-generation superbikes as a factory option or popular upgrade), ensure the tender is rated for lithium chemistry — not all CTEK models are, and using a lead-acid charger profile on a lithium battery can shorten its service life considerably.

Fuel Stabiliser and Injection System Care

Modern fuel — particularly the E10 petrol now standard at UK pumps — is more hygroscopic than older formulations, absorbing moisture from the atmosphere over time and degrading to a varnish-like residue in fuel lines and injectors within a matter of months. For storage periods beyond four to six weeks, adding a fuel stabiliser to a full tank (a full tank leaves less air space for condensation to form) and running the engine briefly to circulate the treated fuel through the injection system before final shutdown is straightforward insurance against expensive injector cleaning later.

Protecting ECUs and Electronics

The main threats to ECUs during storage are moisture and rodents. A sealed garage with a dehumidifier running addresses the first; physical barriers — sealing gaps in the garage structure, ensuring no food waste is present, and fitting a breathable but rodent-resistant cover over the bike — address the second. There is no need for specialist ECU treatment during normal domestic storage conditions; prevention is the entire strategy here.

Selecting the Right Equipment: Ramps, Stands, Lifts and Hoists

The right equipment makes an enormous difference both to how safely the bike is stored and to how easily it can be accessed for maintenance or simply admired. The category ranges from basic paddock stands at under £50 to professional motorcycle lifts at over £2,000, and the appropriate choice depends on your available space, how often you access the bike and how much hands-on maintenance you carry out at home.

Paddock Ramps: The Practical Foundation

An aluminium paddock ramp is the single most useful piece of equipment for the majority of superbike owners. It provides a stable rolling platform that lifts both wheels clear of the floor, holds the bike in a precise fixed position and — when made from quality aluminium — is light enough to reposition easily yet strong enough to support the full weight of any production superbike. Cava Racing’s aluminium superbike paddock ramp is designed and manufactured in the UK to the load ratings and dimensional tolerances that modern superbike geometry demands. The aluminium construction resists corrosion in damp garage conditions, and the anodised finish maintains its appearance without the paint-chip issues that affect cheaper steel alternatives.

For guidance on manoeuvring a heavy bike onto a ramp in a constrained space, our step-by-step guide to moving a superbike safely in a tight garage covers the technique in detail.

Front and Rear Paddock Stands

Front and rear stand combinations are essential for wheel-removal maintenance — brake pad changes, tyre swaps, chain maintenance — and can supplement a ramp setup for long-term storage. Quality matters here. Cheap pressed-steel stands from unbranded sources are a false economy when they are supporting a machine worth tens of thousands of pounds. Specify stands with a rated load capacity that comfortably exceeds your heaviest bike, rubber-padded contact points, and a locking mechanism that keeps them securely deployed when the bike is on them.

Motorcycle Lifts and Hoists

A hydraulic or electric scissor lift is a significant step up in both cost and convenience. It raises the entire bike to working height, making maintenance far more comfortable and reducing the physical strain of working crouched over a machine for extended periods. For a garage with adequate ceiling height, a hydraulic table lift rated to 450–680kg is suitable for all superbike applications and doubles as a display platform at raised height.

Ceiling hoists are a separate category, primarily useful for storage of a second or third bike above the primary storage level, or for manoeuvring a bike into a position that would be difficult by hand. They require structural ceiling fixings — a structural engineer’s assessment is advisable for domestic garages — and represent a significant installation project. For most single-bike setups, they are not necessary; for collectors with space constraints, they are transformative.

Loading and Manoeuvring: Getting the Technique Right

Even the best equipment is only as safe as the technique used to operate it. Heavy motorcycles on smooth epoxy floors in enclosed spaces require deliberate, controlled movement — one person distracted or one foot placed incorrectly can result in a dropped bike that causes significant bodywork damage or worse.

The principle is always to work with the bike’s weight rather than against it. When loading onto a ramp, approach slowly and in a straight line, using the bike’s own rolling momentum once you have overcome the initial lip of the ramp. When positioning on stands, have the bike centred and vertical before committing the stand to its final position. Never position yourself between the bike and a wall, and never stand directly in the path of a falling bike.

For a permanent garage setup, mark the floor with tape or paint to indicate the exact target position for the bike on the ramp or stands. This eliminates guesswork on approach and makes solo loading far more manageable. A simple set of wheel guides — timber strips fixed to the floor at the correct track width — prevents the bike drifting off-line during the final approach onto the ramp.

Storage Accessories and Small-Parts Organisation

A cluttered garage is both harder to work in and more likely to result in accidental damage to the bike. Building in storage for kit, spares, tools and consumables as a deliberate part of the garage setup — rather than accumulating it ad hoc — keeps the space functional and the floor clear.

Wall-mounted shelving with lip rails prevents items falling off during the vibration that passes through a garage structure when vehicles use the driveway. Dedicated hangers for helmets, jackets and gloves protect expensive kit from being piled on surfaces or stored in bags where moisture can build up inside them. A proper tool chest — even a modest two-drawer rolling cabinet — keeps tools organised, avoids the tool-on-paintwork risk of rummaging through a loose tray, and presents well in a showroom-quality space.

For bike covers, always use a breathable cotton or microfibre-backed material rather than a waterproof outer shell. Waterproof covers trap moisture beneath them in an enclosed garage and are designed for outdoor use where rain exclusion justifies this trade-off. Indoor covers should breathe freely while protecting against dust and incidental contact.

Display and Lighting: Creating a Showroom Look

A superbike is a visual object, and the right lighting transforms a functional garage into a space that does justice to the machine. This does not require a five-figure specialist fit-out — it requires an understanding of how light behaves around motorcycle bodywork and applying it deliberately.

Task Lighting and Ambient Lighting

LED strip lighting fitted to the underside of wall shelving or to the perimeter of the ceiling provides even ambient illumination without harsh shadows. Colour temperature matters: 4000K to 5000K (cool white to neutral daylight) is generally most flattering for metallic paint and chrome, rendering colours accurately without the yellow cast of older fluorescent tubes. Avoid anything below 3000K (warm white) as a primary light source — it gives metallic finishes a flat, yellowed appearance.

Directional LED spotlights on a track rail, adjustable to focus on individual bikes, add the kind of drama associated with professional showroom displays. Position them to skim across the tank and bodywork at a shallow angle, which emphasises the shape and surface quality of the paint. Avoid positioning them directly overhead, which creates flat illumination and loses the three-dimensionality of the bodywork.

Underlighting and Accent Lighting

LED strips run beneath a paddock ramp or platform — or fitted to the underside of the frame area of the bike itself for display purposes — create an uplighting effect that elevates the presentation considerably. RGB addressable strips can be set to a static white or any colour you choose; for a premium look, a warm amber or a clean white tends to read more sophisticated than colour-cycling effects.

Maintenance Plan and Seasonal Checklist

A stored bike is not a static object. Even without being ridden, it requires periodic attention to remain in genuine ready-to-ride condition rather than simply appearing so. A brief structured routine, carried out consistently, prevents the kind of accumulated neglect that makes the first ride of spring a diagnostic exercise rather than a pleasure.

On a weekly basis during storage: check that the battery tender is connected and indicating a full charge. Glance at the hygrometer and confirm humidity is within range. Check that the dehumidifier reservoir has not filled (if not plumbed to drain). Confirm the alarm is set and the ground anchor is secure.

Monthly: inspect the tyres for pressure and any visible cracking or deformation. Check for any new surface rust on exposed fasteners or exhaust components and apply ACF-50 or equivalent corrosion inhibitor to affected areas. Check fork seals for any weeping. Briefly start the engine if the storage period extends beyond six weeks, allowing it to reach operating temperature before shutting down — this redistributes oil around the engine and prevents clutch plates bedding together under static load.

Annually, at the start of the season: full fluid check (oil, coolant, brake fluid), chain inspection and lubrication, full pre-ride safety check as per the manufacturer’s service schedule, and a fresh application of ACF-50 or Scottoiler FS365 to all vulnerable metal surfaces.

Budget Tiers and Upgrade Roadmap

A practical garage setup does not require a single large investment. It is more sensible to build in stages, prioritising the elements that have the greatest protective value first and adding display and convenience features as budget allows.

Essential Setup (£500–£1,500)

At this level, the focus is on security, environment control and basic tyre protection. Ground anchor and security chain, padlock upgrade on the garage door, a desiccant dehumidifier, a battery tender, a quality paddock ramp and a breathable cover represent the core protective layer. A tin of epoxy floor paint and an afternoon’s preparation work transforms the floor for relatively little cost. This setup eliminates the primary causes of long-term stored-bike deterioration.

Enthusiast Setup (£1,500–£4,000)

Add to the essential layer with a front and rear paddock stand set, a professional epoxy floor coating system (professionally applied or a quality DIY kit), LED strip and spot lighting, wall-mounted shelving and kit storage, a CCTV system and an upgraded door. At this level the garage genuinely looks and functions like a premium storage facility and is capable of presenting the bike attractively for photography or to prospective buyers.

Collector Setup (£4,000+)

A hydraulic lift table, professional electrical fit-out with dedicated circuits for chargers and lighting, climate control system (combined dehumidification and low-temperature heating), reinforced door, monitored alarm with GSM module, and decorative finishes such as branded wall graphics or a polished floor treatment complete the picture. At this level, the garage itself becomes a considered part of the ownership experience and adds measurable perceived value to the property.

Product Recommendations and Local Sourcing

When selecting equipment for a permanent motorcycle storage setup, the temptation to source cheaply online is understandable but often counterproductive. Load-bearing equipment — ramps, stands, lifts — needs to be specified to the rated capacity of your bike, manufactured to consistent dimensional tolerances and supported by a real returns process if there is a fault. Unbranded imports frequently fail to deliver on any of these points.

For paddock ramps and stands, look for UK-made aluminium construction with clearly stated load ratings. Aluminium is the correct material for this application: it is lighter than steel (making repositioning practical), more corrosion-resistant in the damp UK garage environment, and dimensionally stable across temperature changes. Cava Racing manufactures its paddock ramps and accessories in the UK to these standards, with design informed by real-world superbike use rather than generic catalogue specifications. You can browse the full product range at cavaracing.co.uk.

For dehumidifiers, CTEK chargers, security products and floor coatings, UK-based specialist retailers offer better product support and more appropriate specifications for domestic garage use than general online marketplaces. Treat the ongoing service relationship as part of the purchase consideration — particularly for security products where firmware updates and monitoring services matter.

Quick Start Checklist: Convert Your Garage in One Weekend

If you want a practical action plan rather than a staged project, the following sequence lets you make the most impactful changes to a standard domestic garage in a single weekend. Prioritise in order:

Saturday morning: Clear the garage entirely. Sweep and degrease the floor. Identify and seal any obvious gaps in the structure (around door frames, at wall/floor junction, around cable entries). Fit any additional door locks or floor anchors while the floor is clear.

Saturday afternoon: Apply the first coat of epoxy floor paint or lay interlocking floor tiles. Install wall shelving brackets and shelving boards. Run cable management for the dehumidifier, battery tender and lighting circuits to their intended positions.

Sunday morning: Apply second coat of floor finish if required. Position the dehumidifier and run drain hose to drain point. Fit LED lighting — strip lights first, then spotlights. Set up tool storage and kit hanging.

Sunday afternoon: Position the paddock ramp in its final location and mark the approach guide lines on the floor. Connect the battery tender via its pigtail lead. Load the bike onto the ramp using the technique described in our safe loading guide. Fit the cover. Set the alarm. Step back and look at it.

The difference between that moment and what you had before is exactly what this guide is designed to deliver.

Conclusion: A Garage That Does Justice to the Machine Inside It

A premium superbike deserves premium storage. Not in a vague, aspirational sense, but in the specific, measurable sense that proper storage materially extends component life, preserves resale value, reduces the risk of theft and makes the bike genuinely better to work on and more rewarding to look at between rides. None of the steps outlined in this guide are technically difficult or disproportionately expensive relative to the value of the machine they protect. The barrier for most owners is simply having a clear, structured plan — which you now have.

Start with security and environment control, because those two elements do the most work in terms of actual protection. Add proper tyre and battery management, because the costs of neglecting these are disproportionate to the cost of preventing them. Then build towards the display and lighting elements that turn a functional garage into something worth showing people.

If you are ready to take the next step, browse Cava Racing’s UK-made aluminium paddock ramps, stands and storage accessories to find the right equipment for your setup, or contact us directly if you would like advice on specifying the right kit for your particular space and bike combination. We are here to help you get it right.